Saturday 3rd October 2026
I spent last weekend in Cornwall.
I’d booked first class tickets with GWR over a month earlier, on 11th August, travelling on the 13:03 from Paddington to Plymouth on Friday afternoon, returning on the 12:57 from Truro to Paddington on Sunday afternoon.
The train operating the outward journey is one of the few where GWR offers a Pullman style dining service and I decided to partake and treat myself. You can use GWR’s website to reserve a seat in the ‘restaurant’ section of the first class coaches but only two weeks in advance of your date of travel (before that the rather misleading default answer when trying to book is “Pullman dining is not available on this journey”) so I made a diary note to do this on Friday 11th September to avoid any disappointment.
A (2×5) 10 coach train is allocated for the journey so you need to ensure you travel in the correct (rear) five coach section otherwise, you’ll miss out on the restaurant facility – not being able to walk through the two trains coupled together. The staff were busy laying the tables in the end coach L when I and other passengers boarded at Paddington’s platform 8 so we were asked to wait in the first class section of coach K and be called as soon as everything was ready. It wasn’t long before those with reservations were asked to come forward and such was the demand a few of the tables in coach K were also laid for dining.
No one actually asked to see my reservation confirmation but everyone was accommodated including at least one passenger who had a standard class ticket but wanted the benefit of enjoying a cooked lunch.
There are four staff dedicated to the Pullman facility – a restaurant manager, a chef and two waiters with a fifth person helping out too as it was quite busy.
The staff are very attentive with orders for wine and other drinks taken and dispensed before orders for the lunch itself were taken.
It’s not a rushed affair but as passengers partaking are all travelling to at least Exeter there’s plenty of time on hand and relaxation is the order of the day.
I ordered the vegan option for both the first course (Vadouvan Parsnip Soup) and the main course (King Oyster Bourguignon).
It took a while to arrive but when it did the food was presented to a very high standard and absolutely delicious to taste. I truly don’t know how the staff are able to cook and present such delicious food to such a high standard in the constrained conditions at the rear of an IET train travelling at speed. They do a fantastic job, at all times offering the highest professional standards you’d expect in a top quality restaurant.
As I’d enjoyed the first two courses so much I went the whole way and ordered a desert, and the Chocolate & Orange Torte certainly didn’t disappoint.
By now we’d reached Exeter and most of the diners left but three or four of us continued through to Plymouth enjoying coffee and mints with more relaxation as the staff cleared away the crockery, cutlery and table cloths.
They are a London based crew and having arrived in Plymouth at 16:13 enjoy a couple of hours break before returning to Paddington on the 9 coach 18:16 departure from Plymouth (16:13 from Penzance) arriving back into Paddington at 21:24.
However last Friday something wasn’t right with the kitchen equipment on that nine coach train and as we neared Plymouth the restaurant manager was desperately ringing all the passengers who’d made a reservation for that evening to ask if they could change their plans and travel earlier, on the 16:50 from Plymouth, which would be formed by the same (2×5) 10 coach train as left Paddington at 13:03 and indeed the staff were already relaying the tables again ready for this change of plan which would also mean the staff enjoying an earlier finish.
As you can see from the menu photographed earlier, the meal costs £40 for two courses or £49 for three so it’s not cheap, but as a treat and a luxurious and relaxing way to travel, it’s a great way to spend three hours.
My return journey on the 12:57 from Truro (12:18 from Penzance) on Sunday afternoon provided for a complete contrast. Whereas I’d reached Plymouth in three hours and 10 minutes on Friday, enjoying a relaxing travel environment and superb lunch, this London bound journey would take five hours and 12 minutes (four hours from Plymouth) with minimal refreshments, mainly because last Sunday fewer GWR trains were running on the West Country line, and those that were, were stopping everywhere.
As well as the usual stations from Penzance as far east as Taunton, this and most trains were calling at Castle Cary, Westbury, Pewsey, Hungerford and Newbury – stations which on Mondays to Saturdays and normally on Sundays have their own Exeter to Paddington train enabling trains from Penzance to travel fast from Taunton to Reading.
However, Network Rail were doing work on the slow lines between Langley and West Drayton necessitating Elizabeth line trains joining GWR and Heathrow Express trains on the fast lines meaning GWR had to thin out its service to provide the necessary capacity.
The upshot of this was the trains that were running (certainly, the one I was on) became grossly overcrowded making for difficult and uncomfortable conditions for passengers especially those joining from Castle Cary towards London when there was standing room only.
The consequence was the refreshment trolley ceased and although the Train Manager and staff did their best, you got the impression from their frequent announcements about “this train is exceptionally busy” and requests for bags off seats and no catering etc etc that it was all a bit chaotic and stressful.
There’s also a noticeable contrast in the catering offered to first class passengers with a just a measly “snack box” (one small packet of crisps, a mini packet of crunchy corn nibbles, two ginger biscuits and a flapjack) being all that’s available, which for Penzance to London passengers enduring what was a six hour marathon last Sunday is not what I’d rate as ‘first class’.
I felt desperately sorry for passengers attempting to board at Castle Cary, Westbury, Pewsey and Hungerford. The service offered to them was completely unacceptable, and there had been no prior warning of this. Indeed I hadn’t twigged when I boarded the train at 12:57 what lay in store.
I’d been booked in seat K62 which, yes, you’ve guessed it, is the one seat without a view … for five hours and 12 minutes. No thank you.
Is someone having a laugh at my expense – especially when further along in coach K there were plenty of unreserved seats marked available with a green light. So why make someone who’s booked over six weeks ahead of travel sit in the worst seat on the train when plenty of others are available?
I’d really like someone from GWR to explain this.
GWR offer a weekend upgrade to first class for variable amounts depending on distance (£25 for longer journeys) but this isn’t effectively enforced as I witnessed on the journey. It’s true the Train Manager comes through asking to see “any unchecked tickets” but those intent on not paying, simply don’t volunteer their unchecked ticket and nothing happens.
By the time we got to Exeter all the seats in coach K were occupied and there was no hope for those joining at the many stations still left to call at and find a space to sit. Once the aisle was occupied by standing passengers then catering even for first class ceased.
Despite the train having extended dwell times built into the scheduled journey time at Plymouth (five minutes), Exeter (six minutes), Taunton (12 minutes – to let a Cross Country train overtake), Westbury (eight minutes) and Reading (seven minutes)… making for 38 minutes in total (with another 26 minutes in ones and twos at the other stations) giving an overall total dwell time at stations of 64 minutes on the five hours and 56 minute overall end to end journey time, we still managed to arrive into Paddington at 18:26, 12 minutes later than scheduled.
I left the train stressed out with none of the relaxed vibes I’d enjoyed on that Friday Plymouth bound journey making for a noticeable contrast between the two journeys.
And finally I had to smile at the email GWR sent on Saturday morning encouraging me to “Get ready for tomorrow’s trip” including an encouragement to enjoy “First Class dining” with a photograph of a Pullman style meal. It’s about as far away from the reality of a ‘snack box’ as you could get. Come on GWR – it’s all about managing expectations.
(By the way, anyone making the same journey next Sunday (11th October) be warned … the train will be stopping at Castle Cary and Westbury again and then diverting via Swindon, where it calls, before continuing to Reading and Paddington. There’ll be no chance of a seat from Swindon (nor a ‘snack box’ – but passengers won’t know that, despite the email.)
Roger French
Blogging timetable: 06:00 TThS
The only time I had a full restaurant service meal on a train was on 11/03/1983 on my way to have a speculative tourist visit to Ipswich whilst my motorcycle was being serviced at a Tolworth workshop. Cottage pie, cheesecake and a can of lager = £5.33 – Bill No B96185-18 refers, from Liverpool Street to Ipswich. The real treat was to be found in Ipswich! I am a Town supporter; this was a non-match Friday yet inside the Portman Road Reception I found the entire First Team squad readying themselves for a coach ride for Saturday’s match (away loss 4-1 at WBA). I scrounged an envelope from the receptionist and gathered all their autographs, and that brown sheet of paper is still on file.
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GWR has a lot of history of simply not being able to cope with extra passengers, though the Sunday service pattern here one feels is more a Network Rail problem. I dont know where all the fast / slow engineering work was actually occurring but surely keeping a more intensive west of reading timetable was possible and terminating there with even running hybrids in diesel mode into waterloo instead ?
JBC Prestatyn
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Unless you’re lucky enough to travel on one of the few restaurant trains and can afford the food prices the 1st Class offer on GWR is lamentable and getting worse. Sandwiches appear to have been withdrawn so all that you get on a potentially 5+ hour journey is the contents of your snackbox, served from a trolley if it’s not a Sunday.
You can avoid that windowless seat by booking GWR trains on the Trainsplit website or app – it offers a seat picker, which GWR is unwilling to offer.
Steve
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Thanks for the TrainSplit tip. GWR and LNER seem to give restricted view seats to those who book Advance tickets. GWR offers no information about which seats do not have a restricted view.
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It’s crazy that GWR, as a long distance Intercity TOC doesn’t routinely do a First Class offer comparable with LNER, Avanti and TPE. The offer on LNER has converted me from Standard class to First on that route for every journey where I am paying (and seriously considering Seatfrog when I am not).
I had a very similar windowless seat reserved from Plymouth to Reading on Thursday, but as the unit started there I was easily able to find an unreserved better one.
I do seriously think that seats with poor external visibility should be sold at a discount, with a warning and an insistence that you do not move!
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Seat reservations are free, and it is a longstanding principle that passengers are under no obligation to occupy their designated reserved seat, so how would this proposed discount work? And what if there is a change to the train type, or the train is cancelled and the passenger has to take an alternative train? If there are no accessible seats with a restricted view available, would a passenger with the relevant disability be entitled to occupy a normal seat without penalty and still be able to purchase a ticket with the “restricted view” discount (plus the Disabled Railcard discount)? If the reserved seat without a view is occupied by another passenger (some may prefer that seat, whether because they want to sleep or because it is near the luggage rack or near the vestibule), does the ticketholder have to evict that passenger (rather than just find another available seat nearby)? To my mind, the only solution would be a new class of fare called “restricted view seats” (or should it be two new classes of fare? “first class restricted view” and “standard class restricted view”), whereby the passenger is entitled to occupy any “restricted view” seat (which seats must be labelled clearly), but is otherwise obliged to stand (will the passenger be required to stand somewhere where there is no view?), unless the service has been declassified and/or the passenger has a disability that renders standing difficult.
To my mind, this is far more trouble than it is worth. Better to work on ensuring all TOC have a ‘seat picker’ tool when making reservations for any train service (including other TOCs), and ensuring the software does not allocate automatically seats with a restricted view when there are still plenty of unreserved seats available.
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I’m not aware of any longstanding principle that occupying the seat you reserved is optional. Plenty of guards are very insistent that you occupy the correct seat.
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I have never encountered a guard that insists I occupy the reserved seat. But in any case how would they know I have a reservation because my travel ticket is separate from my reservation ticket, and no like between them. I often get the reservation after I bought the travel ticket.
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It is actually a condition of Advance Singles that you occupy the allocated seat if given one:
4.2 ‘Where applicable, you must travel in the Class and reserved seat(s) shown on the ticket(s).’
GWR, Lumo and especially LNER seem quite proactive at enforcing this in my experience; less so Avanti and ScotRail.
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Its possible that GWR had thought of running trains into Waterloo on that Sunday, from Exeter. However, the SWR route has suffered badly from drying out of embankments and the normal SWR service itself is now only 2 hourly west of Yeovil.
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Indeed the entire west of england SWR line needs sorting out and upgrade and then it can work as back up for GWR for engineering work on that line and route.
maybe we need a proper planned joined up funded entity for Britains Railways
JBC Prestatyn
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Although of course the current state of the line was determined in British Rail days….
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I always understood that weekends, particularly Sundays, were normally bereft of the usual full dining facilities available during the week. I recall several Virgin Train journeys in first class at weekends a few decades ago having a very limited choice of just a roll, albeit it reasonably substantial, and a packet of crisps. And, if lucky, a top up of tea or coffee. A far cry from weekday offerings. As a second class staff card holder, I occasionally get offered a move up to first class on busy trains, and in spite of pointing out my lack of entitlement to any catering, invariably get taken pity on as am now so old!
Interestingly, prior to privatisation, catering staff perhaps based at such places as Ramsgate or Eastbourne, and thus confined to weekday London runs alone, were able to volunteer to work inter-city routes at weekends. Thus finding themselves in York or Carlisle rather than London (Victoria). Perhaps such flexibility will return under GBR?
Terence Uden
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The refreshment trolley service on GWR is hit-and-miss – you never know if, or when, it’s going to appear. And there are no sandwiches.
I had a Sunday journey from Cardiff to London a few months ago which was interrupted by a person struck by a train (and sadly killed) at Wootton Bassett. That meant no London trains via either Hullavington or Chippenham. GWR on this occasion coped well, after a wait at Parkway we were put onto a train (which had got nearly as far as Wootton Bassett and come back – thank goodness for EMUs that can be driven from either end!) and then travelled towards Temple Meads, “Rhubarb” curve, Bath, Bathampton, Westbury east curve and thence main line. It was standing room only but the general feeling was that things had gone as well as expected.
Have been tried TfW’s restaurant offering?
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I agree that the Pullman service is consistently excellent. I have been using it on and off for decades.
What is VERY poor is the catering in 2nd Class. GWR’s BIG mistake was not installing buffets in the IETs, as LNER did. To expect the staff to lug a 17 stone trolly the length of a 9 coach train is outrageous. Even on a long journey they make only one pass. That’s if they can even get through the train.
Richard Ives (can’t recall how to log on)
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I also preferred the buffets on the HST to the current trolley arrangement. But I’d expect a trolley to pick up more casual trade from passengers who would be unwilling to walk to a buffet counter. And if the train is too crowded for the trolley to move the catering staff could park it in one place, announce where to find it on the PA, and in effect it would become a buffet counter. I’ve seen this on one particular busy GWR train from the West country and also if I remember rightly SWT (as was) when they still had some catering on board.
On the strength of two meals over the years GWR’s Pullman Dining is indeed excellent
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Dear Roger
I hope you are well. There was a brilliant piece on GWR by Nick Richardson in the last edition of Passenger Transport. Worth a read.
I had a simialr experience to you when I booked a 1st class ticket on Cross Country and was given a wall to look at, despite there being a great many window sats available. Surely it can’t be impossible for the booking system to allocate wall-view seats only after all the window seats have been reserved?
Nornan Baker
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Many thanks, Norman, yes, I read Nick’s piece in PT – chimed with my experiences too.
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K62 is great if you want to work (especially since you get no gare on the laptop screen) and have privacy; if this was a TGV it would probably have some branding as the mobile office!
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Re my earlier comment, I’ve just been to TVP to change a ticket. I mentioned this piece. I was told that it was DfT that would not ALLOW GWR to have buffets on the IETs. I bet the Civil Servants who made that decision travel 1st Class!
Richard
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Probably true about DfT and buffets on GWR. IETs were entirely a DfT brainchild and GWR were the first victims of their “expertise”. IIRC Virgin had a greater hand in the LNER IET specification (including the Azuma branding) and were able to get a bit more customer focus on those.
Stuart S
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I think you mean Stagecoach. Virgin just took their fees for using the brand and had little or no input into (or interest in) the East Coast operation, which is why VTEC had such a different ethos and feel to VTWC.
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Although not recent I was a regular traveller on advanced tickets with obligatory seat reservations. I never ever even looked at the seat it had reserved for me, always choosing one that suited me when they were available.
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A common occurence on EMR lately with their class 810 troubles. On Sunday August 16th my wife and l, both over 80, had prebooked first class tickets from Leicester to London for a train at 13.59, so we would bè able to catch a Eurostar a day or so later. We arrived in good time and as our train times had been altered by EMR we could., in theory, catch one before or one after. However, when the first one arrived it was absolutely packed with passengers almost falling out when the doors opened, so we didn’t try that one. The second was exactly the same. We eventually sqeezed onto the third train, standing pressed against the doors, with about 12 people, with cases, packed in the first class coach vestibule all the way from Leicester to London. Only one of the trains had more than 5 coaches and only one was an 810. When we returned we noticed signs asking people not to travel on the following weekend. Incidentally, EMR have given up on seat reservations completely. Dennis Hemsley.
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EMR have and are adding back pre cancelled services on the London route, effectively each new trainset managed to provide two up services and three down . not sure if extending 5 carriage to 10 is fully back or intended to be.
A more cross country EMR service is also being added back by the end of October
JBC Prestatyn
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The 222s and 810s have entirely different layouts and EMR are apparently incapable of diagramming units onto workings consistently so have decided to simply stop even trying.
That’s EMR all over in my experience; they’re pretty good at making up stories for their mascot and painting everything purple or grey, but that’s about as far as it goes. They even make the late and unlamented Central Trains look professional at times!
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I have used the train from London to the south West for over 60 years and have experienced the falling standards offered.
Going from Waterloo to Plymouth in the 1960s tickets were offered for first and second lunch sittings in the restaurant car on the Atlantic Coast Express (ACE). Two stewards would come through the train, one taking payment for morning coffee and setting out proper crockery while the other followed with large jugs of hot milk and coffee. Travelling on the Cornish Rivera from Paddington ‘luncheon’, not lunch, was served for 7/6d. If I recall correctly, dinner was 8/6d on the Western Region in the early sixties.
Like Roger, I also went by train, travelling on 17th September from Waterloo to Exeter Central. Knowing the SWR offered no catering, I purchased a ‘meal deal’ before boarding. My homeward journey on the 19th was from Totnes to Paddington. Again, i purchased food beforehand. We were delayed in Exeter for 42 minutes ‘awaiting traincrew’, arriving in Paddington 45 late. My delay was further compounded by all the lifts at Farrington being out of order causing me to use 2 escalators then down 2 flights of stairs making me miss a late running Thameslink train. The next one was 20 late depositing me in St Albans after midnight. I should have arrived at 22.48. This experience hardly encourages train use.
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I don’t think the term ‘Standards’ is either taught or practised today in many areas of life. Other things that strike me is that no one seems to take personal responsibility and supervision is absent or hidden because people fear confrontation. I suspect it is all part of the on going political correctness dogma that sadly, continues to permeate our society.
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My impression is that if you book an Advance Single ticket you’re more likely to get a windowless seat, as though part of the reason for the discount is the lack of view.
Catering for first class passengers took a big step downhill on GWR with the introduction of the IETs, and from my limited trips on LNER the same has happened there with the introduction of the Azumas.
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It went downhill on the East Coast when it became “free” as part of the ‘first class experience’, and it has continued to devolve through the changing franchises and contracts.
Most of the time you’re better off bringing a meal deal sandwich with you, and plenty of people do.
That said, it’s still miles better than what passes for a ‘first class experience’ on EMR.
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Hear are there two previous advertisements for fine dining.
2025 https://youtu.be/0bl6glaU6Lc?is=PvPaxVjt_wI5I2gF
2026 https://youtu.be/oWJw-nnl9ZQ?is=Y2NNCqHlxsjQ07R3
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Sorry it’s supposed to say 2024 not 2026
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Hear are there two previous advertisements for fine dining.
2025 https://youtu.be/0bl6glaU6Lc?is=PvPaxVjt_wI5I2gF
2024 https://youtu.be/oWJw-nnl9ZQ?is=Y2NNCqHlxsjQ07R3
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Whilst many have commented on the catering revealed, perhaps the lack of any proper attempt to check tickets deserves some scrutiny. Dft has lauded the increase in passenger numbers over the last 2 years, which observers have correctly ascribed to the rise of split ticketing distorting the number of tickets issued, but revenue is still below pre COVID levels despite fare increases. Perhaps the first thing GBR should do is get a grip on this, GWR being particularly poor.
The exemplar from my travels is Anglia, on Norwich to London continual checks, and on other more suburban trains a good presence of roving ticket inspectors
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In the mid 90s I commuted daily from Chippenham to Paddington on the 0708 GWR service. This had a restaurant car and offered full breakfast service. There was also a trolley service which I occasionally used. How times have changed. “Enshitification” is the correct term I believe.
Pete
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Given on the Sunday the reduced railway capacity was between Langley and West Drayton GWR ought to have run the scheduled services starting from / terminating at Exeter if not to / from Slough or Maidenhead at least to / from Reading minimising the time spent on overcrowded trains to the leg into / out of Paddington.
Rail replacement coaches to / from Paddington to where ever the trains terminated / started from while slower would have reduced the overcrowding.
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The most unusual train catering experience I had was at the Bounds Green Depot Open Day on 04/05/1987 when Inter-City was celebrating 21 years. I cannot remember the meal which I had, but it was had in E41089 with kitchen car E40705 attached. As this was a static exhibit only soft drinks were offered. Bill No G08989-15 for £7.41 refers! Nine buses and six trains completed my post-event Capitalcard tour, costing £2.05. My final train from London Waterloo to Hersham went via Southfields.
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I’m old-fashioned. I like a proper restaurant car with a proper menu that I can choose from which is consistently available on all long-distance trains rather than just those few trains which a train company feels like staffing.
My best ever on-train meal was travelling from Brno to Praha one evening about 10 years ago; two courses, a couple of beers and a coffee, all for the princely sum of a tenner!
Of course many of the international EuroCity trains now have lost their traditional restaurant cars in favour of “Railjet Bistros” and similar with much more limited menus, and DB’s ICE trains are as infamous for being out of stock in their bistro car as they are for delays.
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At the risk of sounding a killjoy, but the kitchens are only used properly on the handful of Pullman services. On the heavily overcrowded services across GWR land, just think if all those kitchens were converted to seats… Half an extra carriage on every unit. You don’t need a kitchen talking up half a carriage to serve up a snack box.
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Replying to my own comment. Sorry. Typo “taking”.
So open question – could you supply a Pullman service without a kitchen?. Order on the train, too notch restaurant built on Reading station that delivers to the train door. (CH, Oxford).
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I agree that the quality of the GWR Pullman Dining meals is outstanding, given the constraints of the kitchen on the train. I sampled this last year on a Penzance-London trip, and the £15 supplement for the steak was well worth paying – one of the best-cooked steaks I’ve ever had!
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